Priroda- [Nature]

 

High Tatra Mountains from the highway

Slovak people love nature. They remind me a lot of Oregonians in this, but it is perhaps even more deep-seated here, at the core of their national identity. There is an abundance of natural beauty in Slovakia, from underground caves to acres and acres of woodlands, rolling hills and the breathtakingly impressive Tatra Mountains rising snow-covered in the north and every bit as spectacular as the more-famous Alps.

Spis Castle as seen from the road

Add to this- castles high on hilltops, lovely little brooks singing away among the trees, small villages scattered across the countryside, and the beloved sheep on the hills, and you can see why Slovaks live to venture beyond the sidliskos whenever possible to spend time in these natural surroundings. It is a national treasure and they value it with all their might.  It is who they are in their hearts and their souls.

The first time I was here was unforgettable. It was 1991 and we had just crossed the border from Germany into then-Czechoslovakia, somewhere near the town of Plzen (where Pilsner was, in fact, invented). The crossing itself was an incredible moment for us. We handed our passports with sweaty palms to the border guards patrolling down the aisle of the train. George was white as a sheet. “Are you okay?” I asked. “They are even wearing the same uniform,” he responded weakly, referring to the bad old days of terror of authority. 

Eventually, when we began to breathe again, I turned my attention out the window to take in this country I had so long dreamed of seeing. The stain of the harsh Soviet-era buildings was heavy on the countryside, and the native buildings were crumbling- neglected and tired as their inhabitants. But, as the train rolled past small villages, I kept noticing groups of very small “houses” complete with vegetable gardens. There would be many of them all in a row, very near the railroad tracks and often as part of a village. It didn’t make sense because the houses were too small for someone to live in. George explained that these were people’s garden cottages.

Every family that could possibly do so, whether from the village or from a larger town or city, would own a small garden plot to visit on the weekends. The cottage was a place to store tools and might contain a small table and some stools on which to enjoy the picnic lunch the family would take on their outing to the country. This important connection to the land was a bond not easily broken and probably helped many people survive sidlisko living. It continues today, with the same small clusters of gardens visible from the train and the roadway. In some villages, the buildings now look better than they did in 1991, and in some they appear to be frozen in time, but the garden plots remain as a constant reminder of their tenders’ connection to the land.

It is sad to think that this connection might be on its way out, as it is in so many other places. When George was growing up, the Slovak region was quite agrarian. His dad worked as a bookkeeper on a collective farm in a small town outside of Kosice, where payday was conducted with a cash box every Friday. When the family needed a chicken for dinner, he could bring a live one home on the bus for his mother to dispatch and make into the most amazing meals! George remembers the time a chicken got loose and ran for its life; who says chickens are dumb? Now, with the changes brought by on by the development of the European Union, among other things, the chickens come from Brazil and Slovakia makes cars; that is its niche, its agreed-upon place in this economy.

While some of these changes are advantageous, those benefits come at a cost as beautiful agricultural land lays fallow. There are still wonderful farmers’ markets to be had, but we have been warned- for example- about buying “farm fresh” eggs there, because they were likely purchased at the supermarket and repurposed for sale to unsuspecting buyers. One thing that remains consistent is the delicious sheep cheese, bryndza. There is nothing like it in the world, and provides the basis for the national dish- bryndzove halusky, a delicious blend of little potato-dough “dumplings” cuddled in a creamy bryndza sauce and topped with crispy bacon bits.

Bankov

Getting outdoors in Slovakia is easy. Within a 10 minute, 55 cent bus ride from Kosice, we visited Bankov and the Kosice observation tower area in one weekend, both of which provide hiking trails and beautiful vistas in the hills surrounding the city. A little farther afield, two especially beautiful natural places to experience in Slovakia are The Tatra Mountains and Slovenky Raj (“Slovak Paradise”).

Along the trail in Bankov

The High Tatra Mountains are an impressive sight and a joy to experience, and this comes from an Oregon girl blessed to have grown up in one of the most beautiful places on earth! Slovaks were devastated when, in 2004, a huge freak wind storm suddenly swept through the Tatra Mountains, dropping thousands of trees like matchsticks. However, the beauty persists and hiking there is a wonderful outing. Last summer, we spent the day walking on well-maintained trails through lovely woodlands and along rivers and waterfalls, with spectacular views of the countryside below.  Scattered throughout the trails are small chatas, or mountain cabins, provided for rest and refreshment. Along the way you are likely to see places like the one in the picture, offering “Good Beer and Good Food”, but it does not have the commercialized feeling that you might expect.

One of the most impressive sights we saw was a mountain- eer whose job it was to carry supplies up to the huts, as they are only accessible by foot trails. He was carrying a wooden frame strapped to his back, piled high with goods such as food and beer (of course) to a height of approximately 4 feet above his head.  And, lashed onto the very top of the pile was- I kid you not- a toilet! He was walking at a steady pace and breathing rhythmically and seemed to be very “in the zone”, as I am sure you would have to be to accomplish such a feat. I tried to snap a picture, but he was gone before I could reach my camera, and I didn’t have the heart to interrupt his stride. If you want to see these guys in action, you can search for Slovakian Sherpas Race to see them for yourself. The Tatras are popular in both the summer and winter, and I am looking forward to experiencing the latter for the first time this year, but I will leave the procurement of supplies to the experts! 

A cave in Slovensky Raj

We recently spent a beautiful fall day visiting a second outdoor favorite of Slovaks and visitors alike, Slovensky Raj (pronounced like “rye”), or “Slovak Paradise” in English, is a national park which includes hiking trails, rivers and streams, over 200 caves, and extreme climbs along rock faces and up ladders. Once we got there, we enjoyed a tamer version of hiking than many, more extreme (or younger?) visitors do. We watched in wonder from afar (thank goodness) while hikers scaled ladders on the rock face across from us in order to be able to look down at their more-timid fellow-hikers (well, okay, they were probably too busy looking at the scenery to notice us). I was glad to find out later that we had taken a wrong turn and that our friend had intended us to take that trail to the ladder climb. I guess she didn’t know about my dislike of heights. If you look very carefully in the center of this picture, you will see the ladder going up the rock face. At the top is one climber and at the bottom is his companion. We are far away nestled in the safety of the trees. The fall colors were spectacular in this largely deciduous forest, and we were treated to many beautiful sights, near and far.

The end of the trail

After hiking for a few hours, we rewarded ourselves with some local epicurean treats- Hruska (a pear brandy served with a slice of pear) and lard made with pork cracklings, sprinkled with salt (which improves the taste dramatically) and slathered onto thick, hearty bread- in order to fortify ourselves to make it to a local salas for a late lunch. 

A salas was originally a shepherd’s cottage and now, in certain regions, you can find them acting as restaurants serving traditional meals, such as brydzove halusky and mutton. Apparently, you can also book a tour to a real, functioning salas through local tour companies. But, I am happy to watch the sheep, the shepherd, and his dog on the lovely green hillside from the window of the car, full of fresh air and long-loved traditions, as we wind our way back to the city after another memorable day spent with great company in the absolute beauty of the Slovak countryside. 

A fall day outside of Kosice